How to Find Your Range Extender’s IP Address

“How to find your range extender’s IP address?” is a sad question to have to ask. It’s a result of a network change. Not an automated, flawless change, but a series of forced manual changes and you not realizing until it is too late that you cannot access the admin page.

The backstory

Some of you are aware that I live rural when I’m not traveling for IT work. Went from paying $300/month for dial-up Internet (all of the access numbers were long distance) to various USB dongles from Verizon, Sprint, and AT&T plugged into a Cradlepoint router. Even had DirectPC and HughesNet.

I’ve had everything but actual cable trenched to the house. Honestly, I looked into that years ago. They wanted $8,000/mile and they needed to come about ten miles. That was north of twenty years ago. I don’t think it has gotten any closer because they always want to charge us to trench the cable.

For the past few years I’ve had Line-of-sight Internet and I keep a pre-pay Verizon 4G Jetpack around in case there is some huge outage while I’m working remotely. I must have pitched the Cradlepoint because I couldn’t find it to take pictures. It had a nice fail-over feature where you could set up a primary Internet port and tell it to use a cellular dongle when that Internet went down.

The experience has lead to some posts over the years. 2011 Adding WiFi to Your Whole Farm. Whole Farm Wifi 2015. 2017 Beware Range Extender Max Number of Users. Now it has lead to this one.

The recent event

Some tower upgrades had to happen a while back. There were six of us lucky customers whose radios had to have a firmware update that physically refused to apply from the tower. He was out in his van a long time trying to figure out what was wrong. Gave him access to my router and went about my day. Several hours later he left and I could check email.

After heading back out to my office I found I could not print to my color laser printer. This always had a fixed IP address reserved in the router. The reason for the fixed address is that I had a DS10 Alpha for many years.

DS10 Alpha and external SCSI enclosure

It was just easier to have an IP address when I set up a PostScript print queue. The Alpha went to recycling several years ago and I never bothered changing the printer. You don’t fix what isn’t broken.

After a bit of poking around I found the IP address of my router was different in the third group. Odd I thought. That printer was the only device not setup for DHCP so I manually went through the menus on the printer. When you can’t see it on your network, that is your second best option.

Lexmark CS310dn

After changing both interfaces to DHCP and rebooting the printer I could see it and print to it. This printer is good enough for my own personal printing, but I wouldn’t send anything out printed on it now. I’m just waiting for the last of several hundred dollars in toner to go through it before replacing it.

In hindsight, I really should have dug deeper

Ever since then I’ve had these periods of dramatic stutter-sputter Internet access. I kept reporting the issue and Amber couldn’t see anything on her end. (Yes, my line of sight provider is a small company and we know names.)

Yesterday this computer I’m typing on now just seemed to be dying when it came to network access. Not just Internet access. My NAS was difficult to reach. Print jobs went off into the mist for 10+- minutes before finding the printer. I noticed I was connected to the 2Ghz band because it showed the strongest signal. Forced the wifi to use 5Ghz and life seemed to get good.

This morning I had to dig into the problem. That was when I found Mike switched my router to be a bridge. It got me on the Internet, but a heads up would have been nice. The only real downside is that now the router doesn’t have a nice little list of connected devices because it isn’t providing DHCP in bridge mode.

My suspicion was that the regizzing of the router cause the range extender to use some default of 2Ghz connection, forcing all of my network traffic into that narrow little horse and buggy channel.

To confirm this I needed to access the admin page. None of the URLs in the documentation would bring the page up. As a last desperate gasp the documentation says to “use the IP address.” That sent me into the house where the router is and showed me it is now a bridge and as a bridge doesn’t have that nice little list.

There are command line tools, right?

Yeah. If you do networking you probably have everything installed. Those of us who don’t want to get that close to the metal anymore tend to only know a few. On Windows you are kind of screwed.

arp -a

You open a terminal with “Run as Administrator” and you type

arp -a

You can see the output (with my IP addresses smudged) in the above image. I tried every IP address in the browser and none of them opened up the range extender admin page. Took my laptop out to the office in case I had to be on the other side of the range extender to see it and same result.

Try Manjaro

The table I was working at had a machine on it running Manjaro. Linux distros just have to keep pissing people off. None of the old standby network tools are there. Not even ifconfig. If you want to know your machine’s IP address you have to type

ip address

A bit of fumbling around had me doing the following.

sudo pacman -Sy arp-scan
arp-scan output

The command I used was:

sudo arp-scan --interface=wlp6s0 --localnet

You need the output of “ip address” to know what interface value to use. What is really really nice is the fact it gives you the manufacturer names. As you could see there was only one Netgear device.

Yes, the reset had dropped everything back to channel 1, the lowest, weakest signal. I changed back to the highest channel/frequency and life is good!

Adding WiFi to Your Whole Farm

Eventually the day finally comes. You’ve known it would come, but you aren’t quite ready for it. The day someone finally gets their new invoice from DTN satellite service and caves. When they total up their quarterly invoice to find out just how much per year they are spending and still not getting all of the market bids they want. That’s when you get the question “What would it take to hook me up to the Internet?”

The situation here is a similar, yet different, from a lot of farm situations. I have an office building on site where I already have HughesNet Internet service. Nearly everyone who lives on a farm knows you cannot afford dial up service. Almost every phone call is long distance and the speed sucks. Since we have another dish up for television service, why get yet another subscription?

My first thought was to just trench CAT 5 cable over to his house to get a good connection, then I measured the distance. Add to that the power, water, and lines I would have to cross it would be quite an ordeal. Second thoughts are sometimes your best. I was going to be faced with getting Internet service into my house once I got done restoring it, so why not provide Internet access to the entire farm? Spending some time on eBay allowed me to acquire all of the components I would need for under $300.

What you need:

Linksys WRT54G wireless router

Linksys WAP54G wireless access point

Linksys 5 port Hub

Outdoor 18dBI Antenna

Some pre-made CAT 5 cables of various lengths.

Believe it or not, that’s exactly what is listed on the box for the product name of the antenna.

When it comes to the CAT 5 cables, just choose where you want everything and eyeball the distance. Cables come in two lengths, too long and too short. Visit your local office supply store (or Target or Kmart for that matter) and choose some that are close to the length you think you need.

As to a computer for him, I had an old AMD 1.8Ghz machine I wasn’t using. A quick trip to the Linux store on-line got a fresh CD with Ubuntu Gutsy distribution on it. When it comes to an end user, Ubuntu is probably the cleanest and easiest to set up OS out there. The CD cost about $17 to have mailed to me. Ubuntu is freely distributable and comes with most everything you would need: OpenOffice word processor/spreadhsheet, Mozilla Web browser, Evolution email, even some games.

The handiest thing you can have or borrow is a notebook computer when you are setting up WiFi for farm access. This allows you to connect to the router, then wander around your farm testing the signal strength.

Mounting for the antenna was simple. It came with a pole mount bracket set. For a pole I found a 10 foot hunk of old water well drop pipe and drove about 3 feet of it in the ground with a fence post driver. The antenna came with 9 feet of lead cable so it was a quick thing to hook up. You need an adapter cable to hook the antenna to one of the antenna ports on the back of the router. This particular router comes with RP-TNC connector and the antenna came with the new standard RP-SMA. You can either order the adapter, get a cable with the correct connector, or do what I did, steal one out of an indoor antenna kit I had from CompUSA.

Please note: the Linksys router and wireless access point both have a reset button on them. You have to actually hold that reset button for about 30 seconds if you need to reset a router back to firmware load conditions.

I downloaded the firmware for both devices before connecting my notebook directly to the router. The following link has some pretty good information about the setup and configuration of this router.

The basic gist is you have to manually set your wired connection to 192.168.1.5 (any final digit other than 1) with a subnet of 255.255.255.0. Open your Web browser and key in 192.168.1.1 (which is the factory default address for the router.) Upload your firmware update as prompted, then wait for the router to reboot. After it reboots you can again go to that address and you will be presented with the configuration menu. There is no username and the password is “admin” (all lowercase without the quotes).

Each time you tell the router to “ save settings” it will take a few seconds for it to reboot. The first settings you want to change are the wireless settings. Ensure you are using channel 6 and supporting mixed mode communications. Save those settings. Connect again and set your router IP address and turn on DHCP on your main page. I run a network of 192.168.2.x so I set my router to 192.168.2.1. Be sure to set your timezone as well.

Turn your router over and write down the MAC address. You will need this later.

Plug the router into your satellite and your external antenna. Make sure everything is turned on.

Now you are ready to configure your access point.

Plug your notebook into the only port on the back of the WAP54G after you have held the reset button the correct length of time. The AP address will be 198.168.1.245, if you still have the manually set up 192.168.1.5 address on your notebook you should be able to open your Web browser and key in the AP address. Upload the firmware and wait for it to reset. Be sure you have the correct version of firmware. There are 4 or 5 different versions of the firmware. The Linksys web site has a lot of instructions about how to identify your version.

You want this access point to work as a range extender, not an access point. One of the options on the Web menu you are presented with is “mode”. Clicking it will bring up a screen with various modes. Chose the range extender or repeater mode. Find the piece of paper you wrote down the MAC address of the router on, and enter the MAC address into the field provided. It will get formatted with colons, so don’t worry if they appear while you are typing, or after you finish.

Save the settings.

Once it reboots, use your browser to connect again. The one critical piece of information missing from the documentation is that you cannot have a static (manually entered) IP address for the AP if you are working in repeater mode. You must let the address be set via DHCP. Choose DHCP assigned address from the main screen. This time when the router reboots you won’t be able to connect to it because it will have a new address. Don’t worry about it, you don’t need to.

Plug your AP into a port on the Hub. Make certain you do NOT plug the cable into one of the Uplink ports. Plug your computer into the hub and set your wired IP connection to use DHCP configuration. Depending upon what OS you are using you may need to reboot your computer after doing this.

Open your Web browser and try to connect to the Internet. Your favorite Web page should appear.

The reason you need to plug into a Hub is that you may want to get a networked printer later on, or an additional computer. Might as well set it up correctly the first time.

With this type of WiFi configuration and an old notebook computer, you will be able to look up technical specs or repair manuals while working in your shop. No need to put a computer out there permanently and no need to run into the house, look something up, then try to remember it while walking back out to the shop.